Just got back from two weeks in Provence. Of course, I drank Rose. You can’t get away from it and everyone assumes that, if you are American – you want Rose. Several winemakers told me that Rose has to be salmon colored. Even at the expense of taste. And the way to make it that way is to reduce maceration to 3 or 4 hours.
Maceration is done early on in the wine making process. Normally, grapes are soaked so that the color and tannin of the grapes can be extracted. The wines become more red. So, naturally, reduce the time in maceration and you reduce the red. And the flavor. But, almost all of the Provencal winemakers told me that it had to be done for the market.
However, when it is not done – when the wine becomes red – the results are surprising for a wine region that has a Rose reputation.
Quality was a huge surprise. Many of the Rose wines use grenanche, mouvedre and syrah. So, it is almost a natural that some producers are making quality red wines. In fact, in several of the cooler areas, like Coteaux Varois, former Rose producers are expanding their offerings. No wonder that winemakers like Louis Latour are now planting pinot noir in Provence.
Will Americans accept something other than Rose from Provence?
Uncorked Esquire 